by Phill Michael

 

OK...what is that title all about?! Well they are nicknames given to us by the Sherpa:

Buddha (meaning 'Enlightened One' and/or 'The Belly')= Phill

Rato (meaning 'Red Man')= Chris

Thar (meaning 'Goat')=Alex

If you've been following along...there's no need for further explanation regarding any of those. Although, I should add that most of the locals we passed on the Everest Trek (including the Old Sherpa Lady in the image below) agreed that we all looked quite...'comfortable'. At this juncture, I think 'comfortable' roughly translates into 'well fed'. I thank them for saying so. %^)

'My...you look...comfortable.", she said

Further to this, I had the habit of presenting myself as 'Moto Manchi' while going through the Sherpa settlements. 'Moto Manchi' means 'Fat Man'. The Khumbu became the land of one thousand laughs...everywhere I presented myself. I like to laugh.

After the morning noise died down (similar to that of a New York Subway Station at rush hour)...we enjoyed Tengboche to ourselves. The group that was sharing our campsite knew how to disturb the peace...that was for sure. It was quite clear in the early morning...so a few good images were captured and we finally realized that we were truly on the verge of the Himalaya.

Tengboche in the Morning

Chris was looking pretty good and said that he was feeling quite well too. He still had the 'loose movements', but was happy to persevere. Chris and Alex have a daily ritual of zapping their water with some kind of electronic apparatus...or drinking bottled water. I'm kind of a drink from the stream type of guy. I haven't suffered for it...yet?!

Alex and the rest of the crew disappeared in an instant...and Chris, Dawa and I got a leisurely, late start. We walked by a host of 'Mani' (prayer tablets), beneath welcome arches and up rocky staircases. Most heavenly!

Do YOU Have a Climbing Permit?!

Many Mani

Pointy Mani

Buddha is in Everything

Large Prayer Tablets

Round Mani

Chris and the Mani

Our goal was to reach Pangboche for lunch. Chris seemed to be doing quite well...and the temperature was just right for trekking.

A Stupa near Pangboche

Narrow Path in Pangboche

As we made out way through Pangboche, our destination became obvious. Just look for the quaint sign!

Lunchtime

Our whole crew was cold chillin' and the Dzo were enjoying some unburdened time. This was to change quickly...as no sooner were we seated and the Dzo were corralled and loaded. Chris said he really needed some toilet paper...a great deal of toliet paper....then he hobbled to the outhouse.

Alex was feeling fine and I was a little tired but feeling quite well. A light lunch and some water brought me right back to life.

It was to be a bit of a 'haul' to Dingboche...so we got rolling as soon as our food was digested.

Quickly we walked near the tree line and ventured into some pretty barren countryside. There were stone houses, walking tables, Sherpa senior citizens walking five time faster than us...and steep creeks that were spanned by tiny bridges.

Stone Yak Pen and Stone Yak Herder House

A Walking Table!!

(Click here to see the video "Walking Table")

Trucking Back to Pangboche at 65 (years old and mph)

An Old Yak Herders House and Yak Pens

Following a little bridge crossing, I was passed by some fellows who looked like they were selling clothes and shoes and such. They wished me a friendly 'Namaste' as they flew by.

(Click here to see the video "Namaste")

By this point I had lost site of Chris and considered turning back. Then I remembered that he was with Dawa...who would (and could) carry him...if necessary. Once again...he was in good hands.

Now I was well above the tree line and looking forward to seeing Dingboche. It had to be just around the corner...or so I kept telling myself.

Above the Tree Line

Nearing Dingboche

Almost in Dingboche

Chris was feeling the altitude(and his sunburn...and his 'loose movements'), but wasn't feeling bad...so I just plodded along. As I entered Dingboche, the locals seemed to either run and hide or just gawk. I offered grunting and Donkey noises...and the valley started laughing again.

I saw one old man sitting very quietly with a picture of a young girl about 2 inches from his face. He was staring at it quite intently...with no end in site. Interesting. There were closed tea houses (closed for low season) and the obligatory stores with everything costing 4 times (literally) what it cost in Kathmandu.

Dingboche Store

Soon enough, our hungry Dzo walked by...en route to pasture:

(Click here to see the video "Hungry Dzo")

...then some of our smiling porters.

(Click here to see the video "Smiling Porters")

Alex was waving from the wall of a tea house and I knew the exercise portion of the day was done. Oh ya. I waited outside to see Chris...and waited...and waited. Eventually Dawa and Chris came into view, made their way up to our camp and we all smiled. Chris was particularly happy that the walk was over. It was late afternoon and he was ready for sleep.

Chris Rests

We hauled out our little Korean generator, for the first time, and got it running. It was running poorly, but was able to do some charging of electronic gear. Hmmmm...what...to do...about that?!

Chris was also not at his best. He wasn't hungry, slept through dinner...and our evening conversation. I was a little worried about him and the funny colour of purple he was turning. Dawa suggested we see how he was in the morning, so we we cuddled up to some plush pillows in the tea house and counted...Dzo.

Click here to go back to our 2007 Everest Trek index page